Known as the Master of Nudes myself, and with Burberry famous for their effortless, paired back approach to beauty, it’s always so much fun to be able to reinvent the nude look to compliment the new season’s collection.
The models that had been cast in the show this season were all characters -very individual, with their own personality and style; I thought they looked more like actors and actresses than your typical model army. A lot of the boys looked quite pretty with longer hair and soft features, whilst many of the girls had a handsome beauty about them with shorter hairstyles.
This season, with the collection taking reference from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, Christopher wanted the models to retain their individuality so that their hair and makeup helped to further echo the tale of gender transgression from the novel.
THE BEAUTY LOOK
Influenced by the blurring of masculine and feminine, I used Burberry’s September ’16 Runway collection to create a sculpted effect on the skin for both the girls and the boys, playing with depth and highlight to make the models look almost as if they were masterpieces.
I started by using Burberry’s Cashmere Concealer to even out the skin and create a soft matte cashmere effect on the skin. I didn’t use a foundation, instead preferring to leave the skin looking very real, as sometimes, I think it’s more about having the confidence to know when not to cover the skin in order to make it look really amazing.
I applied my backstage essential, Burberry Contour Pen, to create undetectable definition around the cheekbones, down the nose and on the forehead where needed, blending well for a naturally sculpted feel.
For the girls, I applied Burberry’s Eye Colour Contour Pen in Rosewood around the eyes, a gorgeous antique pink shade which is perfect for enhancing the sense of depth that you would find in a painting. I left the models mascara free, but groomed the brows using Burberry’s Eyebrow Definer to add subtle fullness and definition.
I applied Burberry’s Glow to Go Highlight Pen on the bow of the lip and just underneath the centre of the eyes – also adding this touch for the boys, to create a sense of innocence about the look to keep it feeling fresh and modern.
On the lips, I applied Burberry’s amazing new Liquid Lip Velvet, a whipped matte cream product in Fawn Rose, to dull the colour of the lips and create a soft, satin texture. The beauty is really wearable and as always with Burberry, a look that you could take straight from the runway into real life.
Sam McKnight created amazing hair for the show, creating soft texture and a feel that the models had “been outside in the damp and drizzle”, misting the hair with water and then air-drying it. As with the makeup, Sam wanted to retain the models’ sense of individuality; some of the models had effortless ponytails, some models had their hair down and where the hair was short, Sam played with texture working organically with their personality and look.
Mike Pocock left the nails natural, buffing them to create a soft matte finish.