I love nude makeup looks and I’m all about amazing skin – it’s what I’m known for in the industry and so too, are Burberry. I always love the opportunity to re-invent the nude look and put a modern, current twist on things and this season, backstage it was all about truth for Burberry’s February ’17 Runway look.
The collection itself was inspired by the Sculptor Henry Moore; the pieces were incredible this season; wearable, but yet show stopping, and the story behind the designs (exhibited at the Makers House exhibition) was inspiring. Moore took much of his inspiration from nature and important to him, was letting the raw materials he was working with shine through to reveal their own form and identity – their own truth – a notion that fits so well with beauty.
In collaboration with Christopher Bailey, I designed the makeup look for the show to complement the main collection this season taking reference from Moore’s approach. Inspired by the muted nude tones in the clothing and accessories, I wanted the truth of each model – his or her personality, natural bone structure – and importantly their own skin, to shine through and be celebrated and enhanced.
The skin was all about that signature Burberry Glow with subtle, natural looking shadows and highlights, but tailored for each model.
First, all of the models had their skin cleansed, toned and moisturised to really make the best of their natural canvas.
Next, Fresh Glow Nude Radiance was applied to create a sheer, dewiness to the skin (or Golden Radiance for the darker skinned models).
I applied Burberry’s Face Contour Pen (in either Medium on fairer skin tones or Dark on the darker skin tones) to sculpt the face and blended for seamless, flawless results. It was especially important to focus this season on looking at each face separately and working out where to add definition and which features to enhance – on some models I sculpted the cheekbones and jawline – some models had the contour pen applied to the temples and down the nose, and some had the contour around the eyes too. You can do this at home too by looking at the natural shadows and form of your face and working out which features you want to define and intensify.
I applied a lighter shade of sheer concealer down the nose, along the cheekbones and on the bow of the lip as well as between the brows to add highlight to the skin before applying a light layer of Burberry’s Fresh Glow Foundation – but only wherever it was needed to even out the skin tone.
For ultimate skin perfection I applied Burberry’s Sheer concealer to get rid of any unwanted darkness low down underneath the eyes and also to conceal any blemishes and imperfections for a flawless base.
To finish the skin, I just applied a little Nude Powder around the nose, underneath the eyes and to set any concealing, but I left the majority of the skin bare, with a dewy glow.
I really liked the sort of natural, pinky tones that some of the models had around the eyes. It really added to the sense of authenticity and truth that I wanted to capture. Where some of the models didn’t have that pinky-ness, I added a little bit in.
To create a sense of optimism and freshness to the eye, I used Burberry’s Effortless Kohl in Stone, a flattering nude tone, to line the waterline of the eye and keep it bright and open looking.
Where some of the models had dark shadows from the structure of their eye shape, I applied Burberry’s Fresh Glow Pen to open up the eye, but if the eye was already open and bright, then I didn’t need to. It was all about working out what suited the form of the face best.
This season, I was so excited to use the Lip Contour Pens on the models backstage. These are so amazing, I have never tried any other product like them! Designed to create a natural shadow effect just around the edge of the lip line, you can also use them all over the lip too if needed. These pens add contour to the mouth to give the illusion of a fuller lip but they are much more modern than a lip liner and quite different to a lipstick – the models loved them! I used the Lip Contour in Medium and Fair backstage and on some models, I used both shades to create a sense of depth to the mouth.
If the models had naturally red lips, then I used the Burberry Full Kisses Lipstick in Nude Beige, which I love, just to slightly mute the lip tone. You only need to dab a tiny amount onto the lips to make it work, it’s so subtle but looks amazing – it’s actually a shade that I originally mixed up for Sienna Miller!
If the models were dark skinned, then I used Burberry’s Liquid Lip Velvet in Fawn as this was more flattering on a darker skin tone and worked perfectly to mute the lips and create a soft, natural nude on the lips to complement the skin and sculptural feel of the look.