When it comes to show season, most eyes might be on the clothes, but mine are always tuned to the makeup looks created to show them off. Whether it’s knowing that the new nudes are all about imperfect, matte skin, or noticing the sparkling lashes lighting up a Gucci runway, this break-down of SS18’s biggest beauty trends will keep you up-to-date.
As you’ll know from my Burberry show look, next season’s nude makeup looks are more raw and honest than ever before. My approach for that show was to create a look that exposed natural beauty in a newer, more truthful way.
I also spotted clean, nude looks on the runways at Bottega Veneta, Balmain and Saint Laurent, where models were given a slightly more glowing finish and brushed-up brows.
Across New York, London, Milan and Paris, bold eyeliner looks from bold graphic lines to classic cat eyes were big news. I love feline flicks to add instant glamour, and for SS18 you can take the trend in any direction you choose, from bold and beautiful to barely-there. I created a bold, winged out smokey eye backstage at Julien MacDonald this season using Maybelline’s Eye Master Kajal for an intense, sexy feel. At Oscar de la Renta, Tom Pecheux added a flash of blue, turquoise, lilac or pink at the outer corners of a classic feline flick.
Meanwhile, at Tom Ford the models wore graphic oversized black feline flicks, with a similar, slightly smudgy version spotted at Jason Wu. I love this lived-in makeup look, although I should point out that you’re best off creating the subtle smoke rather than actually leaving your cat eyes on for days at a time!
If a pop of lip colour is your bag, next season demands a chic matte lip in a bold flame or fuchsia hue. Check out the matte bold red lip and softly glowing makeup at Max Mara, created by Tom Pecheux.
At Gucci, I loved the bare-faced nude skin teamed with a popping matte fuchsia lip. At Helmut Lang, Inge Grognard created a bold two-toned matte lip that was burgundy in the corners fading to hot red in the middle.
All That Glitters
From Topshop Unique to Peter Pilotto and Christopher Kane, there was glitter a-plenty on display for next season’s catwalks. I like seeing glitter used in these more inventive ways, since sparkle is often kept for party season. Models chose between pink and green glitter for themselves backstage at Topshop Unique, which was used to create a subtle smokey shimmer. At Gucci a variety of looks were created, including statement glitter lashes that would work well for a festival. For a really bold look, check out Lucy Burt’s look at Shrimps; her ‘after-party’ lips involved dotting glitter haphazardly across the pout for a really memorable finish.
Go to Extremes
The last thing I love about show season is seeing the artistry of my industry in action. There are always a couple of looks on the catwalks that are more about drama than what you’d actually wear in real life (unless you’re feeling particularly brave, of course). As usual the makeup at Vivienne Westwood threw the rule book out the window; with bright hand prints across some models’ faces, splashes of colour on others, hair and smudged makeup covered faces, and even a double set of eyes for one male model. Val Garland was the lead artist backstage.